Eating with My Mouth Open
Sam van Zweden (New South Books, available now)
Eating with My Mouth Open is our First Book Club pick for February—stay tuned to the KYD website and Podcast for more throughout the month!
In Eating with My Mouth Open, Sam van Zweden considers the cultural, personal and social value of food. Much like food itself, van Zweden’s writing is both personal and universal. She explores the discourse around food and bodies, working from a central memory or anecdote—a chocolate given to her as a child, visiting her chef father’s workplace and experiencing the wonder of a professional kitchen, or developing a penchant for collecting cookbooks.
The book also offers a view into the dark shadow that so often lurks behind food—diet culture. Van Zweden’s mother is a fat woman and a lifelong dieter, and is also a person living with a mental illness. Mother and daughter both have fraught relationships with their bodies, periodically attempting to shrink themselves using various guides. Van Zweden’s father and brother are chefs, and food is integral to their identities in a different way. As a member of a family that finds connection through food, van Zweden’s memories are situated around shared meals, passed-down recipes, scents and tastes.
There is a distinct need for books like this. Fitness influencers with no professional qualifications peddle nutritional guides and workout plans over the internet. Dieting is being rebranded under the term ‘clean eating’ and the counting of calories has given way to an obsession with macronutrients. During the past year of the COVID-19 pandemic, the Butterfly Foundation—one of Australia’s leading eating disorder support services—has experienced a threefold increase in calls for support.
Readers who have suffered through the relentless, punishing cycle of diet culture will find an empathetic and non-judgemental voice.
Some of the most engaging parts of Eating with My Mouth Open are those that give insight into this world where foods are ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Van Zweden writes about her personal relationship to diet culture eloquently and with gentleness towards herself. This is really quite a small portion of the book, but a powerful one. She writes of reconnecting with her body via trauma-informed yoga, and of replacing the shame attached to food and eating with more positive emotions. Readers who have suffered through the relentless, punishing cycle of diet culture will find an empathetic and non-judgemental voice in van Zweden.
This is a book that I know I will revisit many times, both for its important reflections on how humans relate to food, and for its warmth and wit. As well as being a book about food and the connections it fosters, this is a memoir about home, memory, body image, grief, and ultimately, healing.
– Ellen Cregan



